Exploring Pompei: A Journey Through Ancient Roman History

Intro

I had arrived to Italy from London during my Passover trip, and after exploring Naples, I was not too far from it: I was in Pompei. Just a few minutes from Napoli Centrale, my next destination in Italy, and that I had never been before, was this town full of history, Pompei, a place where time stands still beneath the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. As I stepped off the train, the air felt different—drier, warmer, tinged with the scent of ancient stone and dust.

The quiet streets gave no hint of the dramatic past buried beneath them, but as I walked toward the entrance of the archaeological park, I could feel the weight of history grow heavier with every step. This wasn’t just another tourist stop; it was a window into a world frozen in time, and I was ready to lose myself in its ruins.

Getting into the Parco Archeologico di Pompei

Since this was a day stop before my next destination where I would spend the night, I left my suitcase in the train station. From here, the walk into the town and then into the park was very quiet, as not so many tourists had yet arrived to the complex.

I had purchased my entry ticket weeks in advance, so I had the QR code ready to be scanned, and after passing an airport security style, I was inside the Parco Archeologico di Pompei.

Parco Archeologico di Pompei

The Parco Archeologico di Pompei is one of the most fascinating places I’ve ever visited. It’s a huge open-air site where you can walk through the ruins of the ancient Roman city that was destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD.

As you explore, you see the remains of homes, shops, temples, and even streets with ruts from old chariot wheels. Many of the buildings still have original mosaics, frescoes, and structures that help you imagine what life was like back then. It’s both impressive and emotional, especially when you come across the casts of people who were caught in the eruption. It really feels like stepping into history.

My first stop in the complex was The Amphitheatre of Pompeii, one of the oldest surviving Roman amphitheaters, and walking into it feels like stepping onto the set of an ancient spectacle. Built around 80 BC, it once held up to 20,000 spectators who came to watch gladiator fights and other public events. The structure is incredibly well-preserved, with its stone seating still mostly intact and offering a clear view of the arena floor.

The areas opened to tourists expand to 44 hectares, which is huge, so I picked some interesting spots I found online, and started walking around. The streets are very well preserved.

The Casa e Thermopolium di Vetutius Placidus is one of the most interesting and well-preserved places in Pompeii. It’s a combination of a private home and a thermopolium, which was basically an ancient Roman fast food shop. The thermopolium is located at the front of the house and still has its original marble counter with large holes where clay pots (called dolia) once held food and drinks to serve customers.

Behind it, you can walk into the actual house, which has beautiful frescoes and a small garden. One of the most fascinating parts is the shrine dedicated to the household gods, or Lares, still painted with bright colors. It gives a real glimpse into both public and private life in ancient Pompeii—how people lived, ate, and worshipped all in one space.

The Fullery of Stephanus is one of the best-preserved ancient laundries in Pompeii and offers a rare look at Roman daily life and work. A fullery was where clothes were washed, whitened, and treated, and this one was both a business and a home. Inside, you can still see large basins and tubs where workers would stomp on clothes with water and cleaning agents—often using a mix that included urine, which was collected for its ammonia to clean fabrics.

The layout includes a courtyard, work areas, and upper rooms that likely served as living quarters. There are also well-preserved frescoes on the walls and signs of the tools and machinery used in the process. The Fullery of Stephanus gives an eye-opening view of the hard labor behind keeping Pompeii’s citizens looking sharp, and how people blended work and home life in the same space.

Time for a coffee break, and I found interesting that there is a cafe located in a hill on the park. The espresso was good, although it was so tiny I had to get 3 of them lol. I also got some bread, since I needed the energy to continue this long walk. It was also getting sunny and hot, making it difficult.

From here, I could see the Mount Vesuvius for the first time. Before the eruption, Vesuvius was taller and cone-shaped, resembling a typical stratovolcano. However, during the catastrophic eruption, the top of the mountain collapsed inward, forming a large caldera (a bowl-shaped depression). This collapse was caused by the emptying of the magma chamber beneath the volcano as it spewed out tons of volcanic material.

So the eruption didn’t just destroy cities like Pompeii and Herculaneum—it also reshaped the volcano itself, giving Vesuvius the cratered, split-top appearance it has today. It might look for some as 2 different mountains.

Around 11 AM the tours were already swarming the place. It is not an easy place to walk around, so wear your comfortable shoes, and get those knees ready to go up and down a lot.

The Lupanare di Pompei is the most famous ancient brothel in Pompeii and one of the most visited sites in the archaeological park. The word lupanare comes from lupa, meaning “she-wolf,” a slang term for prostitute in ancient Rome. This two-story building had small stone rooms with built-in beds where clients would meet with sex workers. What makes it especially fascinating are the vivid erotic frescoes above the doorways—these likely served both as decoration and as a kind of “menu” for customers.

The brothel gives rare insight into the more private and taboo side of Roman life. It’s located near the city center, showing how open and normalized such services were in Pompeian society. Though the rooms are simple and cramped, the artwork and layout reveal a surprisingly organized and accepted aspect of ancient urban culture.

The Foro di Pompei (Forum of Pompeii) was the heart of public life in the ancient city. It was a large open square surrounded by important buildings, including temples, administrative offices, markets, and a basilica (used for legal matters and business). This was where people gathered for political discussions, religious ceremonies, and daily social life.

Today, you can still walk through the rectangular plaza and see the ruins of columns, statues, and structures that once defined the center of Pompeii. With Mount Vesuvius looming in the background, the forum gives a powerful sense of the city’s scale, organization, and the everyday lives of its citizens. It’s one of the most iconic and atmospheric parts of the archaeological park.

I had been inside for a couple of hours now, and I just continued exploring and drinking water, but now I was kinda getting back to the entrance closer to the train station where I had left my suitcase. At the same time I was checking the TrainItalia website for times to my next destination, and changing the train I was going to take.

The House of the Faun is one of the largest and most impressive homes in Pompeii, taking up an entire city block. Named after the bronze statue of a dancing faun found in one of its courtyards, this luxurious Roman villa belonged to a wealthy and possibly politically powerful family. The house features beautiful mosaics, elegant columns, and several gardens and courtyards.

One of its most famous pieces is the Alexander Mosaic, a detailed floor mosaic that shows the Battle of Issus between Alexander the Great and the Persian king Darius III. Although the original is now in the Naples National Archaeological Museum, a replica still lies in place at the house. Walking through the House of the Faun gives a strong sense of how the elite lived in ancient Pompeii—with space, art, and a clear sense of status.

The House of the Bear (Casa dell’Orso) is a well-preserved ancient Roman residence in Pompeii named after a fresco of a bear that was found inside. Though not as large or famous as some of the grand villas like the House of the Faun, it offers a glimpse into everyday life for Pompeii’s middle-class residents. The house includes typical features such as an atrium, small rooms, and decorated walls with frescoes.

The Teatro Grande in Pompeii is a large ancient Roman theater that could hold about 5,000 spectators. It was used for a variety of performances, including plays, musical events, and poetry readings. The theater is well preserved, with its semicircular seating area, called the cavea, still visible, and the stage area where actors performed.

What makes the Teatro Grande special is its size and the fact that it was built into the natural slope of a hill, providing great acoustics and views for the audience. Visiting it gives you a sense of how important entertainment and culture were to the people of Pompeii. It’s a peaceful spot today, but you can imagine the excitement of a crowded theater full of lively performances almost 2,000 years ago.

And my last spot before heading towards the exit was the Necropoli di Porta Nocera. One of the main ancient cemeteries located just outside the city walls of Pompeii, near the Nocera Gate (Porta Nocera). In Roman times, it was common to bury the dead outside city limits, and this necropolis contains many tombs, monuments, and burial sites of Pompeii’s residents.

The area gives insight into Roman funerary practices and beliefs about death and the afterlife. Some tombs are simple, while others are more elaborate, decorated with inscriptions and reliefs that tell stories about the people buried there. Walking through the Necropoli di Porta Nocera offers a quieter, more somber perspective on life in ancient Pompeii, contrasting with the bustling city inside the walls.

Just outside the Parco, and free to see is the Esposizione dei Calchi Corporei delle Vittime dell’eruzione del 79 d.C. This permanent display shows plaster casts made from the remains of people who died during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, providing a deeply human perspective on the tragedy that struck the city.

On the way to Salerno

Got gelato on the way to the train station, but checked the times again for the upcoming trains to Salerno, and one was coming in a few minutes, so I literally ran to the train station, got my suitcase back and went to the platform with my now changed ticket. The train arrived, and now I was on my way to this town located just south-east of Pompei.

Salerno looked cute, but it was not my next destination. From here, I had purchased a ferry ticket to Amalfi. I used the Travelmar company to get there, and I was finally going to see one of my bucket list places: The Amalfi Coast.

Getting to Amalfi

The ferry left on time, and here we went to one of the most visited areas of Italy.

The Amalfi Coast is a stunning stretch of coastline in southern Italy, famous for its dramatic cliffs, colorful seaside villages, and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea. The road along the coast winds through charming towns like Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, each offering narrow streets, terraced gardens, and historic churches. The area is known for its lemon groves, crystal-clear waters, and beautiful beaches tucked into rocky coves. It’s a perfect blend of natural beauty and rich culture, attracting visitors who want to enjoy delicious Italian food, relaxing seaside vibes, and unforgettable sunsets over the sea.

And of all these towns, I was staying in Amalfi. Getting there was like stepping into a movie.

And just like that, after debarking from the ferry, I walked all the way up to my beautiful hotel of Amalfi Luxury House. Can’t wait to show more of this town and this coast on my next entry, do not miss it!