Explore Naples: A Complete Travel Guide

Intro

Continuing with my Europe trip, I had arrived from London into the main event: Italy! It had been 10 years since I had been in this country, and I was so excited to see new spots for me, like Naples, where I was landing now. I was so excited to explore this city, that I avoided all those years ago, but now I was here, and ready to go around, eat its fabulous food and checking the best spots.

Getting to Naples, Italy

The flight from London was long but gave me the chance to relax and nap a little bit. After landing, and doing immigration in the Schengen area, I found out there’s a express bus that goes straight to Napoli Centrale, close to where I was staying.

And I chose this area because of the easy transportation, and the many hotels and restaurants. Some people would not recommend to stay here, because it might be dangerous at night, but nothing different from a sketchy neighbor in New York City lol. Picked the Grand Hotel Europa for my stay, and it was enough for what I was doing here, only shower, get ready and sleep for a couple of days.

The very next day, after getting some coffee at the Starbucks Napoli Centrale, I finally got to use the metro system to explore the city. It was going to be a long day of walking.

Porto di Napoli

My goal was to walk all the way up from the South of the city, close to the Port, and get to the Northern part, close to where I was staying by the Napoli Centrale station. I was pleasantly surprised by the Metro, it looked really nice, but getting out of it was always difficult. Lots of stairs and tunnels to reach the surface.

My first stop regardless, was the Castel Nuovo, first erected in 1279, and which was closed at the time of my visit. Probably one of the oldest man made structures my eyes have ever seen.

I continued walking in this sunny day to the Porto di Napoli, where there was a cruise, and was finally able to see Mount Vesuvius on the back! Although it was covered with clouds.

Walked around the Giardini del Molosiglio and saw in the distance the Certosa e Museo di San Martino, located in the same hill as the Castel Sant’Elmo: The Vomero mountain.

Monte Echia

My next destination was the Castel dell’Ovo, or “Egg Castle”, a seaside fortress, set on the tiny island of Megaride. It is the oldest standing fortification in Naples, offering panoramic views of the city and harbor, and is steeped in legend, including the tale that a magical egg hidden in its foundation protects the castle and the city. Unfortunately, it was also closed during my visit, so I just continued my walk, now going North finally.

Monte Echia was next, and there was a chance to walk all the way up using a series of staircases, but I decided to pay a couple of Euros and got in the Ascensore Monte Echia. Literally an elevator to go up this hill.

The elevator was a little scary, but once up, there was the Belvedere di Pizzofalcone, a nice plaza with a great view of the port, the bay and Mount Vesuvius.

From up here it was easier to go down the streets into my next spot, but first, I was so amazed by the little streets of Naples forming a great perspective with the combined multilevel of this city. Yes, if you want to explore Naples, come ready to walk up and down hills and stairs.

Naples is a very Catholic city, just like many places in Italy, and me having grown up in another Catholic country, but now living in the US, I was surprised seeing these funeral posters all over the place. It had been years since I had not seen one, but in Naples they’re all over the place.

Piazza del Plebiscito

Piazza del Plebiscito is Naples’ grandest square, framed by the majestic Royal Palace and the neoclassical Church of San Francesco di Paola. This vast, open space is a cultural and civic hub, often hosting concerts, public events, and offering a dramatic backdrop of historic architecture. Castel Sant’Elmo was visible once I arrived to this, arguably, one of the most important spots in Naples.

In this plaza you can find the Basilica Reale Pontificia San Francesco da Paola with its duomo inspired in the Pantheon of Rome, which we will see later in another post.

There was a wedding happening during my visit, so it was difficult taking pictures, but the duomo was gorgeous. Definitely a must see while in Naples, if you like architecture. And if you like churches, and there are hundreds in this city, continue reading below.

The plaza was almost empty but it did not mean that Naples was empty. I was about to encounter the crowds in this April trip. It was also Easter, so the city was packed.

The Royal Palace of Naples, located in Piazza del Plebiscito, is a grand 17th-century palace that once served as the residence of Spanish and later Bourbon monarchs. Its elegant façade and lavish interior rooms reflect centuries of royal history, offering visitors a glimpse into Naples’ regal past.

For centuries, Naples was the capital of its own kingdom, so no wonder why it has these nice palaces:

1. The Kingdom of Naples (1282–1816): This was an independent kingdom that ruled over southern Italy, separate from the north. At times, it was under foreign control (Angevin, Spanish, then Austrian), but it remained a distinct political entity with Naples as its capital.
2. The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (1816–1861): This was formed when the Kingdom of Naples merged with the Kingdom of Sicily. Naples remained the capital and became one of the largest and most advanced cities in Europe at the time.

In 1861, Naples and the rest of southern Italy were unified with the rest of the peninsula into the Kingdom of Italy, ending its status as a separate capital city of a sovereign state.

Just around the corner of the plaza, it was time to get some morning snacks and coffee, at Gran Caffè Gambrinus, a staple of this area of Naples. Got my espresso…

And a very sweet but yummy dessert. Fortunately, it was not that big haha.

Not far from there, and still by the Piazza, the Galleria Umberto I was located. There are not many opened stores at this Galleria, but it is an amazing architecture work. Reminds me a lot of the one in Milano, which we will see later in another post.

Via Toledo

Continued my walk north, and got to the famous Via Toledo. This is one of Naples’ most vibrant and historic streets, stretching over a kilometer with a lively mix of shops, cafés, historic buildings, and local street life. Originally built in the 16th century, it connects major city landmarks and offers a rich blend of culture, fashion, and daily Neapolitan energy.

Like I mentioned before, this is where the crowds started to show up, and where you have to be careful with the borseggiatore or borseggiatrice (pickpockets).

The side little alleys gave a nice view, and showed that locals still live in these busy roads.

Crowds and crowds. I felt like I was at a theme park.

Time to try the first Italian dish of this trip, and of course it had to be pasta. I went to Signora Bettola, not too far from Via Toledo, and had to try the ravioli. Of course, it all tasted very fresh and organic. No wonder why this place is so famous.

P.za S. Domenico Maggiore

It was time to continue with my walk, kind of getting closer to my hotel, and encountered the P.za S. Domenico Maggiore. Like this, there are many little plazas in this area, with the typical churches right next to them.

But something that caught my eye in this area was the Pasticceria Giovanni Scaturchio, where I was able to get my first Sfoglietella of this trip. I got so addicted to them, like this pastry is marvelous in this country.

Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara

With pastry in hand, I walked back to try to get to my next destination, probably one of the only ones I actually paid to enter, the Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara. This serene Gothic monastic complex, features a majestic church, a peaceful cloister adorned with colorful maiolica tiles, and an archaeological museum showcasing its rich history.

The architecture of this space is just so amazing. Having a background in Civil Engineering, and having had a class related to history of construction, this gave me so many memories.

The complex was beautiful. I liked the colorful tiles in some of these pillars on the central patio.

The last part of the complex had a museum with pieces from Artemisia Gentileschi, a renowned Baroque artist. Created between 1630 and 1635 during her time in Naples, this masterpiece—often referred to as the Maddalena Sursock—was part of a private collection in Beirut and suffered damage during the 2020 explosion. Following meticulous restoration, it returned to public view in July 2024 in this complex.

Just right before leaving, a huge nativity was by the exit of the complex. There’s even a street not far from here dedicated to these Christmas representations, all year long.

Just out of the complex, you can find the famous Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, where you can access the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, a Baroque church known for its unusual diamond-point stone façade and lavishly decorated interior filled with frescoes, marble, and gilded chapels.

Piazza Dante and Piazza Vincenzo

Still backtracking a little bit, I went to Piazza Dante and Piazza Vincenzo, before I continued with my approximation to Napoli Centrale.

Piazza Dante is dominated by a grand statue of the poet Dante Alighieri, surrounded by historic buildings and serving as a gateway to Via Toledo and the historic center. It’s a popular meeting spot, often bustling with students, street performers, and market stalls.

And not far from there, Piazza Vincenzo Bellini is a charming, bohemian square named after the composer Vincenzo Bellini, known for its relaxed vibe, open-air cafés, and views of ancient Greek ruins beneath street level. It’s a favorite hangout for artists, musicians, and locals enjoying Naples’ creative energy.

Via S. Gregorio Armeno

Via San Gregorio Armeno is a famous narrow street renowned for its artisan workshops that specialize in handcrafted nativity scenes and figurines. Lined with stalls year-round, it becomes especially magical during the Christmas season, blending tradition, creativity, and Neapolitan charm.

Time to get back into the churches of Naples, and Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore, located in this street, was very impressive.

From the entrance you could see the Complesso Monumentale San Lorenzo Maggiore, where you can have access to the ancient ruins of the old city of Naples.

The churches and basilicas around were just as amazing.

Passed by another one, this time the Girolamini Church.

Via Duomo

It was time to go to my last spot in the historic center of Naples for this afternoon, the via Duomo and its famous Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta. This church was so amazing, just look at this architecture, and the interior art. Just wow.

The duomo itself is a piece of art, that is not too mentioned in the must visits in Italy. I highly recommend seeing these frescos.

Belvedere San Martino

Went back to my hotel after a long day exploring the Historic Center of Naples, but I had skipped the Castel Sant’Elmo and the hill it was located. I wanted to see it but was going to wait until the sunset to check the views. After getting ready again, I planned my train ride to the hill.

And getting to the Belvedere San Martino was not easy task. I went to the Piazza Dante, and from there, took the funicular, and then walked up a few blocks. I guess you could Uber here too. Made it to the top, and after getting some ice cream (or gelato), just sat down and enjoyed the views of the bay and the Mount Vesuvius.

When it got dark, I went back to the hotel, this time just going down the hill on foot, and taking the metro back to Napoli Centrale. From the hotel, I walked to the very famous L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele: Founded in 1870, famous for serving just two classic pizzas—Margherita and Marinara—crafted with simple, high-quality ingredients and a perfect chewy crust. Often considered one of the best pizzerias in the world, it draws both locals and tourists who line up daily for an authentic slice of Neapolitan tradition.

The wait is long. I recommend to get it to go to wait less time, and also bring cash. Unfortunately, I had not taken any Euros yet, and I had to use an ATM that was close by, and ended up paying almost $60 in taxes and fees, after a poor conversion rate. Do not make this mistake. But the pizza was the best I had ever tried, very fresh, thin crust, rich. Unbelievable.

And that is how I finish my visit to Naples, now the next day after checking out, it was time to visit my next destination, just minutes from this city: Pompei!