A Journey through Medellin and Bogota: Culture and Cuisine

Intro

I take advantage of every year’s October’s Jewish Holidays to travel around the world. In 2023, I visited Chile and La Patagonia in Argentina, and this year, I was going to take advantage of these almost 2 weeks of vacation, to go back to Latin America. This time Colombia with Medellin and Bogota, and Mexico with Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta and Zipolite, were the chosen destinations. It was going to be a trip to relax, eat, explore and nothing else. Only Zipolite was going to be a new destination, but we’ll see Mexico on the next entry, for now, let’s enjoy Colombia.

From JFK to MDE

My point of entry to Latin America was going to be Medellin in Colombia, a city that I used to visit periodically like a decade ago, but had not visited in a while. My flight was from JFK using Avianca, a Colombian airline. The sunrise over New York was unbelievable.

But then the plane turned, and I was looking at the best skyline in the world, the great city that never sleeps was getting ready for a new day.

And I was just saying bye for a few days.

And after almost 5 hours we were getting into Medellin. The greenery of the Colombian Andes never stops amazing me.

Exploring Medellin

Medellín, Colombia’s second-largest city and capital of the Antioquia department, is known as the “City of Eternal Spring” due to its pleasant, year-round climate, and is a vibrant hub of culture, art, and innovation. 

Here’s a more detailed description:

Location and Geography:

• Medellín is situated in the Aburrá Valley, a central region of the Andes Mountains in northwestern South America. 
• It lies on the slopes of the Cordillera Central at an altitude of 5,000 feet (1,500 meters). 
• The city is surrounded by lush green mountains and is a temperate valley. 

Culture and Climate:

• Medellín is known as the “City of Eternal Spring” because of its consistently warm and pleasant weather, with temperatures averaging around 24°C (75°F). 
• The city has a vibrant cultural scene, with a thriving arts scene, including public art projects, museums, and galleries. 
• Medellín is also known for its friendly and warm-hearted locals, known as “Paisas”. 

Economy and Industry:

• Medellín is a major industrial and commercial center in Colombia, particularly in the steel, textile, and chemical industries.
• The city also has a strong coffee industry, as it is located in a wealthy coffee-growing region.
• Medellín hosts one of Colombia’s three stock exchanges. 

History and Transformation:

• In the past, Medellín faced challenges related to drug cartels and violence, but has undergone a remarkable transformation into a safe and innovative city. 
• The city has invested in public transportation, education, and social development, leading to significant improvements. 
• In 2013, the Urban Land Institute chose Medellín as the most innovative city in the world. 

Things to do:

• Explore the vibrant neighborhoods, such as Comuna 13, known for its street art and cultural projects. 
• Visit the Museo de Antioquia, which houses an extensive collection of Botero paintings and sculptures. 
• Enjoy the city’s green spaces, including Parque Arvi and the Botanical Garden. 
• Take a day trip to nearby towns and natural attractions, such as Guatapé or the coffee region. 
• Experience the city’s nightlife, with a variety of bars, restaurants, and clubs.

But one of the many things I like about Colombia is the many malls it has, and the difference with the ones in the US, is that these malls are huge, and it’s where people come to meet up and spend the entire day. There are many gastronomical and cultural offerings that it’s just fun being here. My first stop was the Santa Fe Mall in El Poblado.

There I had my first meal in Colombia, and then I went to get even more full in Mondongo’s. While in Colombia I prefer to move around in Uber, but Medellin has a Metro system too that includes cable cars! All of them very safe to ride. El Poblado is the most famous of the tourist neighborhoods in Medellin, and there you can find everything and also feel safe the entire time. As in anywhere in the World, just be cautious of your surroundings and “no des papaya” which means, “don’t give an easy target” or “don’t put yourself in a vulnerable position”. It’s a warning to avoid situations where you might be easily taken advantage of or become a victim of crime.

Back in NYC, I tend to go to a Dominican place for my fix of Mondongo soup, but it is definitely not as the same quality as the Colombian version. Mondongo soup, also known as “sopa de mondongo,” is a hearty and flavorful tripe stew, a staple in Latin American and Caribbean cuisine, particularly in the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, and Colombia. It’s made with tripe (typically cow stomach), vegetables, herbs, and spices, often including tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and root vegetables. The portion was huge, and it included so many sides that I could not even finish it lol. It was very good tho.

I was staying by the Lleras Park in El Poblado. Parque Lleras, or Lleras Park, is a vibrant nightlife area in Medellín’s El Poblado neighborhood, known for its numerous bars, restaurants, clubs, and a lively atmosphere, attracting both locals and tourists. 

I was able to finally check in in my room, and it was huge. Torre Poblado was the hotel, and it was amazing. The Colombian peso is a strong currency, but still very cheap compared to the US Dollar, so if you come from the US, or Europe, you’re going to have a nice time.

I took a nap after such a long journey and huge lunch, that when I woke up all I did was explore around and have a nice dinner. The next day, I went to get breakfast from the hotel, with the typical Colombian cheese, fresh fruit and empanadas.

The view from the top of the hotel was amazing, with the mountains on the back, and the Iglesia del Poblado right next to us.

I got a haircut, like a very fancy one lol, and spent the day relaxing and exploring around Laureles and El Poblado.

Ended the day eating Churrasco from La Pampa Parrilla Argentina after getting a massage.

Medellin Tourist Attractions

On the third day, it was time to stop resting, and do some tourism around. So I Ubered to El Pueblito Paisa, located on Cerro Nutibara. This is a replica of a traditional Antioquia town from the early 1900s, offering a glimpse into the region’s history and culture. 

There are many restaurants and stores up here, but I had to try the oblea, which is a a wafer dessert. They fill it with jam, cheese and all kinds of syrup. It tastes really good.

From up here, since this is located in a hill, you can see parts of Medellin, and the Aburra Valley.

Next up, I went to Mercado del Rio, located next to Rio Medellin.

This is a newly renovated area full of variety of food, including many local ones.

I was saving some space for later, so I just got the mango frappe and it had huge lol.

To finish my tourism for the day, I went to El Tesoro Shopping Mall, another amazing mall where you are going to have a great time. I has a theme park inside with many attractions, and multiple restaurants.

Also, the views of the city from up here are amazing.

Last night in Medellin

For the last night I switched hotels, and stayed in The Somos Beats Hotel & Rooftop, a really nice option, also very close to Parque Lleras.

After resting from a long day of walking, I got ready again and could not leave the city without trying the Bandeja Paisa, for some the typical dish not only of the region, but the entire country. For this, I chose Mojitos, which supposedly had one of the best Bandeja Paisa in the city.

“Bandeja Paisa” literally translates to “Paisa platter” in English, and it’s a traditional Colombian dish from the Antioquia region, known for its abundance of ingredients and hearty flavors, often served on a large platter. The dish is a celebration of Colombian cuisine, featuring a variety of ingredients, including rice, beans, meat (chorizo, chicharrón, ground beef), avocado, plantains, arepas, and a fried egg. Sometime it includes even more ingredients.

The ambience and food were good. I think I would recommend it, especially if you are not too familiar with these dishes, they would explain in English what it is all about.

From Medellin to Bogota

After a long night of partying, it was time to say goodbye to Medellin. The hotel offered a nice breakfast.

Years ago, going from Medellin to the airport (located in another town called Rionegro), was a nightmare. Now, with the new Tunel del Oriente, which is 8.2-kilometre (5.1 mi) long, getting to the airport is super easy and fast. It takes 30 min from El Poblado, when it used to be more than an hour.

I checked in with Avianca, and now I was going to be on my way to Bogota.

With 8 million people, Bogota, the Capital of Colombia, is a vibrant and diverse metropolis known for its high altitude, rich history, and thriving cultural scene, serving as a hub for finance, politics, and education. 

Here’s a more detailed description of Bogotá:

Location and Geography:

• Andean City: Nestled in the Cordillera Oriental, a branch of the Andes, Bogotá sits on a high plateau at an elevation of about 8,660 feet (2,640 meters), making it the third-highest capital in the world after La Paz and Quito. 
• Climate: Due to its high altitude and location near the equator, Bogotá experiences a temperate climate with mild temperatures year-round. 
• Surrounding Landscape: The city is surrounded by mountains, with the iconic hills of Monserrate and Guadalupe to the east. 

I Ubered to my hotel located in Parque de la 93 in the north side of the city, and spent the rest of the day exploring the area including Centro Comercial Andino, where I watched a movie at CineColombia.

Exploring Bogota

I had been to Bogota many many times, so I was definitely going to chill and relax here. The next morning I got my fix of a nice breakfast that included fresh fruit and arepas.

Went for lunch to Titan Plaza Shopping Mall, I know another huge mall in Colombia lol.

But there, I had to get the chicken, cheese and mushroom crepe from Crepes and Waffles, one of the best restaurant chains in the country. Absolutely delicious, and good prices too.

Another day, and went around Parque de la 93 in a beautiful day, just exploring. Tried the Colombian bread, got some coffee at Starbucks, and just relaxed.

And talking about relaxing, I went to Face Up Parque 93 to get a facial, and after that, got another massage just around the corner. Really recommend taking advantage of the currency value to pamper yourself.

For my last night, I got another hotel, Eurolan 93, also in the same area.

I could not leave the country without trying the nevados from Juan Valdez Cafe, a sort of Frappuccino, but with the strong taste of the Colombian coffee.

At this point, I was just doing a gastronomical tour of the city, and had to go back to Crepes and Waffles, this time to try the baby beef crepe. It was sooo good. I prefer the restaurant located in Parque de la 93.

My flight to Mexico was not until midnight, so I got myself a Day Hotel in the city center, and right next to it, there was a Taco place, that had a surprisingly amount of good reviews. I had to try it myself, and wow, yes, very well deserved.

It was time to say bye to Colombia. Medellin and Bogota were a relaxing scape, and I would definitely go back to enjoy more of these cities. At the airport, before flying out to Mexico, I had the Chicken plate from Kokoriko, which was really good. For now, Mexico was waiting for me, but we will see that in the next chapter.