Exploring Provincetown: A Culinary, Gay and Cultural Journey

Intro

Provincetown, perched at the tip of Cape Cod, is a vibrant destination with deep LGBTQ+ roots, a lively arts scene, and incredible food. This 4th of July weekend, I finally returned, opting for a scenic train ride from NYC to Boston, followed by a ferry across the harbor to Provincetown. The town’s charm, from its iconic Commercial Street to its stunning beaches and bike trails, is matched by its rich history and inclusive spirit. Over the weekend, I immersed myself in the Independence Day festivities, savored fresh seafood, and explored P-town’s unique blend of Portuguese heritage and pride-filled community.

From NYC to Boston

I had been wanting to return to Provincetown for a long time, and it seemed that the long 4th of July, Independence Day, weekend was the perfect excuse for that. Also, no need to flight from NYC since I could just get on a train and get there.

For some reason I had a voucher from Amtrak, and used it to buy me and and a friend trains to Boston, and then got a roundtrip ferry ticket to Provincetown. You could definitely drive there but it just takes a long time, since it is at the very end of the Cape Cod in Massachusetts. The train tickets were $64 RT per person and the ferry was $113 RT per person.

Got up early and went to the Moynihan Train Hall at Penn Station to take my train to Boston. This new station still awes me every time I see it.

The train left on time and we went towards New Jersey and then north towards Massachusetts. The skyline of Manhattan could be seen from the train.

A little bit of Boston

After a few hours we arrived to the South Terminal in Boston, and the ferry to Provincetown was still a couple of hours way. We decided to walk north towards the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway and explore a little bit, and maybe grab something to eat.

After a while we arrived to the Quincy Market. It was Independence Day, and it was packed.

Always like walking around this area, but the food spots were so busy, we ended up in wagamama, throwback to London where we also got food in this Asian restaurant. It was the start of a culinary experience on this trip.

On the way to Provincetown

It was time to get the ferry to Provincetown in the Long Wharf, not too far from the market. We were a little bit early so we just waited.

We started boarding the ferry, and it seemed a lot of people were going to spend the Independence Day weekend in Provincetown.

The views of Boston from the ferry were amazing. The distance to the end of Cape Cod is considerable, so it takes some time to get there.

The ferry had toilets and a store where you could buy snacks, food, drinks, etc. Many people decided to be outside just enjoying the weather and the views. But the ride was very smooth.

4th of July Celebrations

We arrived and got ourselves an Uber to the hotel. We stayed on Commercial St but a little bit East, reachable by foot, but we decided it was better to bike during our stay. The prices of hotel nights have increased dramatically. The last time we came we were able to stay in the town center for way cheaper.

After getting freshen up, we went out to explore the town, and got food at the Bubala’s By The Bay restaurant.

After exploring the town a bit, we decided to go to the Boatslip Hotel, for the 4th of July celebrations. It was packed.

By the way, and it is fair to explain this for people not too familiar with this town. P-town is considered a gay paradise since LGBTQ+ activities are all over the place, especially in Summer. Pride month was over but it did not mean that gays would not come here anymore. The Summer activities were on their high now that it was warmer.

Fireworks started to the music of Firework by Katy Perry. They were a bit underwhelming, but I guess that’s what this town have to offer. Definitely not Happily Ever After lol.

The crowd was enjoying the show tho, and the night was still young. Quite the plan for only the first night in Provincetown. I feel like the trip had been already paid off, it was really fun.

Commercial St was packed until the early morning. Bars and Clubs closed kind of early, but people were just making the party on the street and back in their hotels. The town was alive.

Exploring the town

The next day after getting coffee, we got ready and went to get a nice New England styled brunch. The lobster roll was a center piece of my meal.

Provincetown, Massachusetts, has deep ties with Portugal because of the significant migration of Portuguese fishermen and sailors, especially from the Azores and Madeira, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

These immigrants brought their fishing expertise, traditions, and culture, which influenced the local fishing industry and shaped the town’s cultural heritage, visible today in its festivals, cuisine, and community. One of these demonstrations is the Provincetown Portuguese Bakery, where you could find (early in the morning) traditional Portuguese pastries like Pastel de Nata.

And yes, the Pride flag is everywhere, ensuring members of the LGBTQ+ community that this is a safe area for all of them. I had already been in Fire Island and Haulover Beach in Miami, but this is another level.

Biking on the dunes

After renting a bike for the next 3 days, we went to explore the northern part of the Cape Cod, which includes the Province Land, a series of sand dunes and forests with bike lines, and very interesting views. Definitely, so many things to do in Provincetown and this is only one of the most exciting ones.

The bike paths can be extenuating in some areas, since sometimes they have to go up the dunes in a very steep direction, but after a while, we made it to the Visitor’s Center, where we could see the Point Beach, the most isolated beach of this area.

The views were amazing tho, and at least the weather was great for biking.

Biking around town

We continued biking towards the Herring Cove Beach, one of the most famous ones, and got to see peculiar houses like this one with all those bears.

And one of the activities we planned to do was to check the Boy’s Beach, just at the end of the Provincetown Causeway. When the tide is low, people gather to catch all kinds of animals.

It was almost the end of Day 2, and after biking around the town, we ended up in this other Asian restaurant, Royal Thai at Pilgrim House. The food was good in general.

We went back to rest at the hotel, and went out back again that night. It was Friday night, and once again all the places were packed. I think we came during a nice time of the year.

Boy Beach

It was the 3rd day of our adventure up here in Cape Cod, Massachusetts, and we had explore many places, and one thing we had not done was going to the beach. For that, we decided to go to the Boy Beach.

Not without first getting brunch at Patio American Grill. The Blackened Swordfish Sandwich was delicious. Very recommended restaurant during your stay in Provincetown.

We biked back towards the south, and on a semi hidden spot, there is the start of the trail to go to the Boy Beach. We left the bikes by the road, where all other bikes were attached, and went into this trail.

It is a long walk towards the beach. Why? Because it is a very isolated beach, where it is not de facto nudist, but since it is so far from everything else, people just get naked and enjoy the sun and the water. Reminded me a bit of Gunnison Beach in New Jersey, just with a longer trek, and having to pass through the tide. Fortunately, it was low, but I had heard that people coming to this beach have the water all the way up their waists in some high tide instances.

And well, besides getting naked and enjoying the beach, guys also like to do other things here, like meeting other guys and even cruising. Sorry, I have to name everything as it is lol.

Our last night

After spending hours on the beach, we went back walking the long trail, got our bikes, and got to the hotel to chill a little bit. On the way we got a Lobster roll from Lobster Pot Express. Definitely, I am a fan of lobsters,

It was Saturday, and we knew everyone was just resting waiting for the night to come.

The night was hot and fun. We went to Purgatory Gifford House, and well… 😈.

One last stroll

The next morning, we went for brunch once again, this time to Yolqueria, and it was pretty good.

We returned the bikes, and walked the Commercial St for the nth time once again, stopping more on the stores.

We could not leave without trying oysters, and we grab them from The Squealing Pig which is a staple of this town, very recommended.

The Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown was built to commemorate the landing of the Pilgrims in Provincetown in 1620, where they spent five weeks before sailing to Plymouth. During this time, the Pilgrims signed the Mayflower Compact, a foundational document for self-governance in America.

The monument, completed in 1910, honors Provincetown as the Pilgrims’ first landing site and recognizes its historical significance in the nation’s early colonial history. Modeled after the Torre del Mangia in Siena, Italy, the monument stands as a symbol of both the Pilgrims’ journey and the importance of democracy.

Back to Boston

We got our suitcases, and head back to the pier, to get the ferry back to Boston. There are other activities to do in Provincetown, some of which we have never done like:

• Take a Whale Watching Tour – Provincetown is one of the best spots in the U.S. to see whales up close.
• See a Show at the Provincetown Theater – Enjoy performances ranging from plays to drag shows and live music.

Back in the ferry everyone seemed tired, but this escapade from NYC had been a success. Loved every second of Provincetown, difficult spot to top in the whole US. I think it is next to NYC, Miami, Orlando and Los Angeles in terms of keep you entertained, especially in the Summer.

After some time, we were closer to Boston. We could see the skyline.

And here we were. The debarked, and took an Uber to the South Terminal, where the Amtrak train was going to depart very soon. NYC here we come.